Paul Golias Ideas

 

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Paul built this very nice paint booth in his garage. He uses two attic fans from Home Depot so suck warm garage air and push it through filters on top of the booth.  Additional filters (shown) are used on the exit air side.  The garage door is closed low enough so that only the filters are exposed.

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Take a close look at the scat tubing that runs to the oil cooler.  Paul installed a control device that regulates air through the cooler to control oil temps.  As you can see, the rest of the engine compartment is just as sanitary!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Paul recently drew up plans for his heater control door.  While Paul hasn't had any oil temp problems this winter he's holding off judgment until the hotter weather arrives. Click the picture at left to see the drawings. 

UPDATE 07/ 2001  Paul reports that even on 90+ degree days oil temps are staying well under 210 degrees.  It would appear that the remote mounted oil cooler, oil cooler door and scat tubing are working great.

The second drawing shows how to make the shaft the butterfly attaches to.  

Look at these drawings would you?  CAD stuff is nice but there is nothing like a professional blueprints done by hand.  Each one has it's own personality.

DCP00886.JPG (64538 bytes) DCP00888.JPG (60573 bytes) In addition to wingtip strobes, Paul likes the look and safety of a Vertical Stabilizer strobe.  He dealt with the issue of excessive flash in the cockpit by building this really cool fairing into the VS.  Paul used #4 screws to attach the VS tip for future access.  My initial plans will be to use the same technique for attaching my VS tip since I will be mounting my VOR antenna in on the VS

Notice the clear coat paint job.  The pictures do not do it justice, but this is one immaculate paint job.  It is glass smooth and deep looking.

DCP00887.JPG (59593 bytes) DCP00889.JPG (59787 bytes) Paul's workmanship is first rate everywhere! A couple of techniques he used for securing hinge pins on the cowl and trim tab.  Note the inner seam where the cowls come together.  Beautiful!
 DCP00885.JPG (100192 bytes) I really like the look of the paint on Paul's panel.  So much so that I would like to duplicate it on my plane.  It's not black but more like a dark pewter or gunmetal color.  Paul said he used a can of can of Rustoleum spray paint designed for lamp posts but used light coats.  Nice overall VFR panel.

Paul's -6 uses an O-320 and C/S prop.  Not seen in this picture is a unique defrost system.   At the bottom of the inside windshield, Paul built a fiberglass lip and cut slots every few inches.  If necessary, Paul can route the cabin heat to this area to defrost the windshield. 

DCP01291.JPG (72830 bytes) DCP01293.JPG (80492 bytes) Paul recently got his FAA signoff with only two minor squawks.  I missing screw and one safety wire on wrong.  Paul will be building his tail wheel time in a Citabria then scheduling some more time with Mike Seager in Portland.  After that he'll take to the skies.  It must be tough looking at that beautiful plane in the hanger but having to wait to fly it even though it's ready to go.

Paul has matching wheel pants ready but will leave them off for the first flights.

16PGwinter.JPG (72457 bytes) 16PG_Panel.JPG (73659 bytes) 16PG_Seats&Cover.JPG (55002 bytes) Here are some updated pictures of N16PG.  At this point I think the plane has about 7 or 8 hours on it.  As you can see, the weather has not been cooperating very well here in the Chicago area.  The wheel pants are on and looking very good.  Paul also bought a new Nikon Digital Camera, so these pictures are better than I could have taken with my old Kodak digital.

Paul has also installed some sheepskin seat covers and they look great.  As soon as he gets his hours flown off I'll get a chance to sit in those things and check them out.  The baggage compartment cover is also a nice touch to help give the plane an overall professional appearance.

OrigBaffle.JPG (169122 bytes) ModBaffle.JPG (34840 bytes) The top picture is the original baffle for the right cylinders.  The rear cylinder was running hot so Paul modified the baffle to deflect air over the front in an attempt to cool the rear cylinder more.  It helped quite a bit, but again,  warmer weather will be the true test.
ConLock1.jpg (115135 bytes) ConLock2.jpg (217235 bytes) ConLock3.jpg (126458 bytes) You have to love some peoples ingenuity!!

Paul had a need for a gust lock and didn't find anything he liked that was simple and easy to use......so he designed his own.  They don't get much simpler or easier to use.  It stores in his map pocket and I can attest, the control surfaces WILL NOT MOVE when this simple device is in place.

The pictures pretty much tell the story.  There are two holes drill in the flange at the bottom of the instrument panel and that's where the end of the control lock slides in.  In effect, the instrument panel is keeping the stick from moving.

The control lock is made from an old fashioned coat hanger.

Sub Floor and Insulation

This is the method Paul chose to provide an insulated, level floor that will also attach carpeting.  Paul like the natural resonance absorbing qualities of wood, hence it's use instead of aluminum. The penalty is 2.5lbs. per side and 8lbs. for the center section. This includes the plywood, insulation and mounting strips. 
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 The insulation layer is in place and the spruce strips for attaching the plywood are screwed to the side of the Al. angle supporting the floor.  There is also one Al. angle clip with a tapped hole located at the mid point of the battery.
309A.JPG (72596 bytes) The mounting strips are spruce 1/2 X 5/8 X length to suit.  The plywood is aircraft grade finished Birch 3MM thick.  The insulating product is called The Insulator manufactured by Unlimited Quality Products double foil side single layer.  All above purchased through ACS.

This shot shows the support strips mounted to the bottom of the plywood at the outboard side.  The plywood is held down because it fits both under and over the corner Al. angle.

0311A.JPG (413814 bytes) The plywood fits under the corner angle at the front R/H side and on top the angle from the fuel pump rearward.